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My Moe-Joe cell – Rob Eklund
updated 12 years, 6 months ago
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Things I have noticed with my cell so far.
When my cell first arrived, I went through the cleaning/deburring, washed all the parts, soaked it in vinegar for a couple of hours, rinsed it off then assembled it unpolished with city tap water.
The \”mounting\” at this point was to have it on the kitchen counter balanced on a large ceramic coffee cup.
For a power source I am using a small 12v 6a battery from a local hardware store, I connected the negative to the core and left it sit for about an hour.
Maybe a minute after connecting the positive lead, the cell started putting off a large energy field that felt very similar to reiki energy (only with some type of static component to it.
As for charging time, I had the 12v connected for 5 minutes twice a day, early in the morning and just before I go to bed.
on the morning of the second day the cell still had lots of energy coming from it, and still showed 1.8v dc on my multimeter 8 hours after being connected to the battery.
Unfortunately I forgot to disconnect the battery after the 3rd day when I went to bed and the effect went away after that.
I then took it apart and cleaned it again, reassembled and sealed it up. Due to the cleaning and removing the scaling from the spheres it is more or less polished now.
This time I mounted it in a stainless steel mixing bowl with about a 12\” diameter which is electrically connected to the core of the cell. I then had the whole setup still on the ceramic mug, on a leather topped wooden chest of drawers.
I then filled the cell and the bowl with tap water that was vortexed in a setup similar to the one that Moshe has a video for on this site.
Using the same power cycle as the first time (5 minutes twice a day0. The feeling of the energy field took much longer to form (I didn\’t feel it until midway through the second cycle).
Some things I noticed about this setup, there are a very large amount of bubbles forming on the outside of the cell for a 12v system. Having played with electrolysis before it is way more than I would expect from that voltage.
The water in the bowl is cold, about 5-10 degrees f below ambient in the room. From what I have read it was showing the signs of stage 3 water by the end of the second charge cycle.
The bubbles in the bowl are very stable, they are still there when I go to charge it.
It does not hold as much electric charge as the first one. (.8v pre charge)
It may be a total coincidence, but it seems to cloud up when I charge it in the morning. (it may at night, but it is too dark to tell)
One other thing that may just be an odd coincidence, the truck I am planning on installing it in has changed.
I had to advance the timing by 10 degrees to smooth it out, I can think of no reason for this to be, but it now is running with the ignition timing at 20 degrees btdc. where it has always been 10.
ill attach a picture of the bubbles in the bowl, the ones at the surface have been there for at least 8 hours.
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hi Rob,
Thanks for much for sharing your setup with us.
First of all, I am not crazy about the negative being brought in from the top, next to the positive leads from your battery. even though it would seem not like a big deal, having the negative brought in at the bottom, and shrink wrapping all of that exposed negative lead at the top, will make a difference.
also, stainless steel as the container, i have found does not work as well as glass, or ceramic, as in your first setup… which was basically just the cell.
if you do have the cell within a vessel filled with water, make sure it is over the top of the cell – in that case, you\’ll have to shrink wrap the negative central bolt as it comes out the top.
check out this page:
Charging the Cell
And in particular, this video, about cutting the hole in the bottomof the cell. now, diamond drill bits are much easier to get (HomeDepot, etc) not too expensive, and make the job very easy to do. (make sure you use lots of water though)If you can get your water from a stream, or thundershower water (lower electrolytes, but high energy) and THEN swirl it up, you\’ll be even better!
having said all of this, your results sound great! especially that car influence like that.. as if the intention of knowing you will install the moe joe cell there has called it to influence the engine.
Wow! Sounds related to Unit Charge effect and Chric McGuire\’s posts here on Nutopia. -
What would you think of an earthenware container for the cell, something along the line of a glazed clay? Just wondering if the more natural form may be of benefit.
Normally the one lead is connected at the bottom,I admit I took the quickest routh to connect this one to see if the stainless bowl would work.
I attached a picture of what I had in mind, it\’s a salt glazed clay jug.
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I found a source of spring water, This is one of the roadside parks that has a constant natural flow year round here. also fron all of the published water quality test I have seen this one is pretty average.
http://www.premierwatermn.com/waterblog/frederick-miller-spring-water-quality/
One thing I noticed right away, not sure what it means, the water level in my vortexer is about an inch and a half higher than it is while running tap water.
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Rob Eklund wrote:
quote :What would you think of an earthenware container for the cell, something along the line of a glazed clay? Just wondering if the more natural form may be of benefit.the best is glass. I haven\’t worked a lot with Earthenware because you cannot see the cell, and i like to look at my moe-joe… all shiny and round.
I\’d like to hear about your experience with it.
Let us know, ok?
My feeling is that it will be good. Especially with such a pretty pattern on the outside. 😛 -
Rob Eklund wrote:
quote :I found a source of spring water, This is one of the roadside parks that has a constant natural flow year round here. also fron all of the published water quality test I have seen this one is pretty average.http://www.premierwatermn.com/waterblog/frederick-miller-spring-water-quality/
One thing I noticed right away, not sure what it means, the water level in my vortexer is about an inch and a half higher than it is while running tap water.
cool!
Is that water level using the same amount of water?Can you take a picture or a video of your vortexer?
I imagine your cell will respond much better to the spring \”live\” water. -
This is my vortex maker, it is really low tech. it\’s a beer bottle with a bunch of n50 magnets held with rubber bands down through the neck. It sits in a stainless cooking pot, and at this point it uses a little dc powered pump to move the water into a off center tube sealed into the side of the bottle, the neck is reduced to .250 inch by a stainless plug I made with a tapered I.D. (Large opening on top)
This picture is with the spring water in it, I always just put 2 gallons at a time in it.
With the tap water, it steadies out at about the level of the top of the top row of magnets. when the water gets above that it seems to have some of the properties you are looking for. (It does seem to rise after a day or two.) With the spring water it went straight to this level and has been steady there all day.
I know its not a great picture but I think you can make out the vortex and water level.
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ahhh, i see.
it probably is because the spring water has a naturally higher orgone \”living life energy\” content and so its surface tension is higher, which makes it move through the vortexer slower, and so it keeps a higher level.
it takes some time to get the dead tap water up to that level.nice pic. good innovative design.
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I did have a question for you. What have you noticed as far as the noises your vortexer makes when you first start it up on a batch of water?
With the city tap water it starts with a sucking sound, then makes bubbling noises for maybe a few hours, then it gets quiet except for maybe a suction noise now and then.
With the spring water both of the batches I have started have only done a little of the sucking noise and were then silent.
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Rob Eklund wrote:
quote :I did have a question for you. What have you noticed as far as the noises your vortexer makes when you first start it up on a batch of water?Not much really. The pump I am using is silent, and the noise from my vortexer is always the same, with a few exceptions that are unrelated to water, as far as i have noticed.
quote :With the city tap water it starts with a sucking sound, then makes bubbling noises for maybe a few hours, then it gets quiet except for maybe a suction noise now and then.With the spring water both of the batches I have started have only done a little of the sucking noise and were then silent.
that\’s interesting. again, must be related to your setup, the surface tension of the water, and the pressure of your vortexer.
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Surface tension could do that, from the bottom of the vortexer there is a little over an inch drop to the water. I did that so I could see the water coming out.
My understanding is that it should exit as a stream, not a cone, if that makes sense to you. Schauberger, I think, said it should be like a stream of \”boar urine\” (not sure of the exact animal)
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Rob Eklund wrote:
My understanding is that it should exit as a stream, not a cone, if that makes sense to you. Schauberger, I think, said it should be like a stream of \”boar urine\” (not sure of the exact animal)[/quote]that is good info. i never knew that.
mine is exiting like a spray…
i wonder what i\’d have to do with my present setup
to get the boar urine effect? -
I\’m not an expert, but it seems to be a matter of balancing the flow rate, speed of the vortex and the opening size.
I suspect if you slowed the input speed the surface tension of the water would hold it together on exit. Maybe a larger input tube would slow it enough? (if your pump has a fixed flow rate the speed would be determined by the size of the tube)
If the one you have gives you good water I wouldn\’t mess with it, but maybe would play with a different one.
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